rob answers:

The XSi won’t go on sale until a replacement model is announced. That won’t be until next Summer. For now, $640 is a very good price for the XSi with the 18-55mm kit lens.

If you want to save a few dollars you could get the previous model, the Rebel XTi. This camera costs $600 with a lens. (This also goes to show that Canon is really in no hurry to lower the price of the XSi.)

If it has to be cheaper than $600, look for a used XTi or consider a different brand. For example, the Nikon D40 only costs $450 with a lens. The D40 it’s a bit less fancy than the XSi but it’s capable of producing equally stunning images.

rob answers:

Buy a Canon XTi or XSi. Then you can use your mother’s lenses. If you buy any other brand then you’ll have to buy lenses for that brand of camera since all camera manufacturers use a proprietary lens mount. Nikon cameras only use Nikon lenses (or after-market ones designed for the Nikon lens mount); Canon only uses Canon lenses (or after-market ones designed for the Canon lens mount).

The effect you describe is a product of a large f-stop such as f2.8 or f4. It is called Depth of Field (DOF) and is loosely defined as “The area in front of and behind your subject that is in acceptable focus.”

A large f-stop of f2.8 of f4 will produce a shallow DOF – very little in front of or behind your subject will be in acceptable focus while your subject is in crisp, clear focus. This is a great way to separate your subject from the background.

A small f-stop of f8 or f11 will produce a much broader area of acceptable focus in front of and behind your subject.

The focal length of the lens will also affect DOF. A wide-angle lens (21mm, 24mm, etc.) will produce more DOF at any f-stop than a telephoto lens (100mm, 200mm, etc.) at the same f-stop.

Keeping your subject farther away from the background also enhances a shallow DOF.

rob answers:

Am a nikon person and have had nikons since the 70′s I personally think the nikon D40 give you more for the dollar than any DSLR today. There are some that do more but you pay a good bit more. Do not let the lower megapixels concern you if you do not do very very large prints you will never notice the lower DSLR. My brother recently needs a DSLR for a class and I recommended the D40 to him So I would also say get the D40 not the D40X. The Nikon D40 does not have limited functions compared with other entry DSLR. Yes it has fewer funtioncas than a 1500 dollar camera body would. It is not a a cut down version its equal or above most any entry level DSLR.

I have a d300 and a d40 and when I am shooting for fun I grabe the d40. Its weightless, a joy to use and gives good results

If you have a bit more money the D60 give you a number of things you want. It has newer firmware and image processors, designed for the 10 mp sensor. It has an “Active Dust Reduction System with Airflow Control “. Nikon not putting a system on the D40 to deal with dust is one of the biggest drawbacks I see to the D40 ( though I think its still a great camera for the money) If you change lenses dust will get in and the camera needs a system to deal with it. With the D60 you get a VR lens. That will help with low light situations ( they may offer that now with the D40 but originally it was not) . The D60 has Adaptive Dynamic Range. Nikon calls it “Active D-Lighting,” it lets you save some highlights that my otherwise be lost. It has a newer better metering system than the D40. So you can get the D40 not the D40 x and spend the other money on lenses or a flash

Some people will want to make a big issue out of the fact that there are some nikon lenses that will not autofocus on these cameras. Right now there are “only” about 39 lenses that autofocus on these cameras. They cover the range of focal lengths. I doubt any photographer would be seriously limited with “only” this many lenses to choose from. If you want to manually focus you can more than double this and do so at a low cost. Manual focusing is easy and how we did things for decades before the advent of autofocus.

Cannon and Nikon chose to put the vibration reduction in the lens rather than the body. Somefolks put it in the camera and make of that. Yes that means you get stabilization only on lenses with that feature built in. In the body in theory it would work on every lens. But in fact image stbilization in the lens has proved to work faster and smoother with a lower impact on focus times than image stabilization in the body

rob answers:

Both cameras are excellent. Neither is better. If this is your first SLR camera, don’t buy from a big-box store. Go to a good camera shop with knowledgable people who will talk to you and let you try both cameras, side-by-side. Buy the one you most enjoy using and makes you want to make thousands of photos with.

Disclosure: I am the owner of www.lenslenders.ca in Canada.

rob answers:

I checked some of the current online prices and compared with data I had from last year’s holiday season, I did not find the prices very different for DSLR cameras. P&S cameras get the most attention

rob answers:

I guess an easy thing to check is the file size of the picture you took. My Canon 8 megapixel camera uses about 3.5 MB for most pictures. And I have it set for the highest resolution. If your file sizes are less than that, then you need to check you camera settings.

Turn your camera on as if you are going to take a picture. Select “Func” and use the navigator to get to the resolution (should look like a quarter circle). Make sure that is set to the highest, “Superfine”. Then go down to the size selection and again select the highest, “Large”.

Now take a couple of practice shots and see how they look on your computer.

For your different modes, you have to be in Manual mode. The Auto mode limits your selection.

I would recommend taking a photography class at your local community college. They will show you the basic for any type of photography, but also help you understand your camera.

rob answers:

You should go with Canon PowerShot SD1400IS 14.1 MP Digital Camera
* 14.1-megapixel resolution; 2.7-inch PureColor System LCD
* 28mm wide-angle lens; 4x optical zoom and Optical Image Stabilizer
* 720p HD movie shooting capability plus HDMI output
* Smart AUTO intelligently selects from 22 predefined settings
* New scene modes such as Miniature Effect and Fisheye Effect;
* Low Light mode for dimly-lit situations.

rob answers:

Your camera only records in standard definition at 320X240 or 160X120 pixels (15 frames per second). That is giving you less than ideal video, especially viewing it on an LCD computer monitor or a flat screen TV set at full screen16:9. You will see better results if you change the viewing screen(s) to 4:3 ratio.

Make sure the camera is set to 320X240. That is fine for web use if you may.

rob answers:

58 mm UV filters start at under $10 – you really want to base your choice of camera system on one existing UV filter????

Do yourself a big favour and do a lot more learning and research before you jump into this – you are so NOT ready for this.

rob answers:

Both the Canon SD780 IS and the Canon SD1200 IS have very good image quality. The SD780 IS does better in lower light without using flash. At times they are the same price on line about $180 but most times the SD780 IS is 20 bucks more.

rob answers:

What price range?

If you’re looking for something to compliment your 18-55 you may look into a 75-300mm lens, or if that’s just too long the 28-135 3.5-5.6 IS is a pretty good walk around lens. It’s not great close in (28mm) but for out in the yard or at the park it’s a good focal length.

The 24-70 that was mentioned above me blows either of these lenses away, but it cost’s over $1k.

rob answers:

Wow u should really read the book if you’re going to buy that kind of a camera…

rob answers:

It’s actually very easy to do.

This guide should help you out…

Http://www.photoguides.net/light-graffiti

As far as changing your aperture goes, just change the dial on your camera to either A or M. A is Aperture priority and M is manual mode.
You can find out more about these settings here…

Http://www.photoguides.net/understanding-your-camera

Hope that helps
–
Ash Davies

rob answers:

Canon Rebel XS 10.1MP Digital SLR Camera
# DIGIC III image processor provides fast, accurate image processing; Live View Function
# EOS Integrated Cleaning system and Canon-designed Self Cleaning Sensor Unit, plus Dust Delete Data Detection in included software
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001CBKJGG?ie=UTF8&tag=bestdeals-y-20&linkCode=as2&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B001CBKJGG

rob answers:

Take it in

rob answers:

Based on your budget you should look at http://www.the-digital-picture.com/Reviews/Sigma-80-400mm-f-4.5-5.6-EX-DG-OS-Lens-Review.aspx

http://www.amazon.com/Sigma-80-400mm-4-5-5-6-Telephoto-Cameras/dp/B0000C1I36

The Canon 100-400mm http://www.the-digital-picture.com/Canon-Lenses/Canon-Wildlife-Lens.aspx would be better but it is a lot more money.

Whatever you do you should get a lens with anti-shake. It is worth it on a long focal length lens.

rob answers:

The canon t2i can use any Canon EF or EF-S lens. It can also use Sigma, Tokina, and Tamron lenses that are built specifically to fit on Canon cameras. I replaced the 18-55 kit lens that came with my Canon camera with a Tamron 17-50 (non-vc) version which I like a lot. However, the Tamron costs almost $500. Unless you can afford to spend over $300 for a lens, you cannot beat the 18-55 kit lens that comes with the t2i.

rob answers:

Any dSLR is good for photography.

Whether it produces good quality images is really up to you, NOT the camera

rob answers:

Since you say you like taking landscapes and shooting video the best accessory I can suggest is a tripod. Here are a couple of tripod buying guides:

http://www.outdooreyes.com/photo11.php3

http://mansurovs.com/how-to-choose-and-buy-a-tripod-for-a-dslr-camera

Although you say you’ve had your camera and lens for a couple of months in my opinion its still too early for you to be considering another lens. The 18-55mm zoom is a good versatile lens that will suffice for about 90% of the photography you do.

You vaguely state: “I want a greater zoom …” but for what use? Sports? Wildlife? Before buying a lens you really need to know why you need it and how you’ll use it.

So buy a tripod and in another 4 or 5 months you may have a better idea as to whether you need another lens or not.

rob answers:

When i shoot videos on my t2i, i use f/1.8 – 2.8, manual focus on my subject…if your lens isn’t really fast then just try the lowest fstop

rob answers:

It is a good entry level DSLR.
I would not rule out the Nikon D40/D60 series of cameras either.

Camera equipment is generally not discounted much, so any place that has camera gear for more than $100-200 under MSRP is probably a rip-off.

I work with and trust the following:
www.bhphotovideo.com
www.beachcamera.com
www.adorama.com

If you find other places online, check out their rating at:
www.resellerratings.com

If they have anything less than an 8, I’d stay away from them. If they are not even listed, i’d stay away from them.

rob answers:

The 30D is rugged and well built. It has a bigger body as well, compared to XTi which has a plastic body. Furthermore, 30D is easier to use and operate. If you can afford, get the 30D, if not then get XTi.

The self cleaning sensor of XTi is its selling pitch. In the real photography world, it makes no real difference. Also xti is 10MP while 30D is 8.2 MP. That doesnt make any real difference either.

XTi is made for consumers and 30D is made for semi professionals.

The best place to buy is ebay because you pay way less compared to big box retailers.

But make sure you dont buy used or refurbished. But it brand new from a reputable ebay store. And dont buy it on auction. You can filter the results to show you Buy it Now prices and then filter it by price from lowest to highest. And see which store offers the lowest Buy it Now price. But if you buy it from Big Box then go to Best Buy.

rob answers:

Yes, In USA it is called an XTi while in the rest of the world it is called 400D.

Rohn

rob answers:

There is not much you cannot do with the on-board flash that you can do with an external flash except with more power. On-board flash units are only good when used as a flash-fill tool.

Experimenting with light, would require you to be able to move the lighting around the subject to create back lighting, side lighting, key and fill lighting and multi-lamp lighting. To be able to see what the light is doing to the subject BEFORE you take a shot, you need to use some continuous lighting lamps. You can start by using some inexpensive work lamps sold in home supply stores like Home Depot. You can get a couple of 500 watt lamps for under $40, then with your camera on a tripod, you can shoot products, adjusting the light directions and intensity as you learn how to control the lighting.

rob answers:

The 18-55mm will give you a good wide angle so you can take great landscapes. The 75-300mm will give you a good lens for shooting field sports and wildlife

rob answers:

Your SD card is too slow, needs to be at least class 6, preferably class 10 SDHC.

The camera cannot write to slower cards quickly enough to clear the memory buffer, so it bottlenecks and stops.

Faster card. Look for class 6 or class 10, 20MB/s or higher.

I personally cannot see past Sandisk Extreme.

rob answers:

The T3i features Canon’s newest DIGIC 4 image processor and a native ISO range from 100 to 6400 (expandable to 12800). Exposure metering uses a dual layer 63 zone sensor and AF is accomplished via a 9-point system with a cross-type center point. The camera is compatible with Canon’s EF and EF-S lens lines, accepts SD/SDHC/SDXC memory media and is offered as a body only or in kits paired with 18-55 or 18-135mm stabilized zoom lenses; our review unit was the latter kit. Canon includes an eyecup, camera strap, AV and USB cables, battery pack and charger and CD-ROM software with each camera.

rob answers:

The T3i features Canon’s newest DIGIC 4 image processor and a native ISO range from 100 to 6400 (expandable to 12800). Exposure metering uses a dual layer 63 zone sensor and AF is accomplished via a 9-point system with a cross-type center point. The camera is compatible with Canon’s EF and EF-S lens lines, accepts SD/SDHC/SDXC memory media and is offered as a body only or in kits paired with 18-55 or 18-135mm stabilized zoom lenses; our review unit was the latter kit. Canon includes an eyecup, camera strap, AV and USB cables, battery pack and charger and CD-ROM software with each camera.

rob answers:

The 18-55mm lens uses a 58mm filter. The UV(0) is the “normal” filter used for protection of lenses.

If you look at the end of your lenses it will have a Ø symbol followed by a number, that is the filter size for that particular lens (for example…Ø58mm, 72mmØ, etc.).

Just remember….a cheap filter can adversely affect your photos. Always buy a reputable filter such as Hoya, Tiffen, Cokin, B&W, etc.

Such as:

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/652130-REG/Hoya_A58UVC_58mm_Ultraviolet_UV_0_Haze.html

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/11967-REG/B_W_65070113_58mm_Ultraviolet_UV_Filter.html

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/23740-REG/Hoya_X58UV_58mm_Ultraviolet_UV_0_Super.html

rob answers:

The 18-55 kit lens that comes with the camera. After you have used that lens for about a year you will have a pretty good idea of what other lens(es) you might need in the future. Do not start buying lenses until you have quite a bit of experience with your DSLR…you’ll just end up wasting a bunch of money.

rob answers:

If you like portraits then the 50mm f1.8 is a natural. When you fill the frame with the models head and shoulders you have a very flattering perspective with an APS-C / 50mm combo.

The wide aperture also helps to isolate the focus around the subjects face, particuarly the eyes and throw the background out of focus.

For the dreamiest effects and circular bokeh you need to use the lens wide open, that is at f1.8, though it is at its sharpest when you get to f2.8 – f4.

Do bear in mind that in daylight this is going to give you a very fast shutter at even low iso speeds, perhaps even too fast for the shutter synch for the cameras built in flash. If you intend to use fill flash then you will need to add an ND filter to bring the shutter back below 1/200th of a second, or use an external flash gun with a high speed synch mode.

All in all the 50 f1.8 is a great little lens at a bargain price. It will require some basic technique and knowledge to get the best out of it. On a rebel you can forget using the viewfinder for manual focusing, so set the focus to one shot, select the centre point, place this over your subjects eye, let the camera focus, hold the pressure, recompose then fully depress the shutter button.

With practise you will get it, expect a few missed shots to begin with, especially at f1.8.

rob answers:

IF your Pentax lenses are K-mount lenses then they will work with the current Pentax DSLR line.

If your Pentax lenses are the older M42 screw-mount lenses then you should be able to find an M42 to Nikon, Pentax, Sony, Canon DSLR body. They will, of course, be manual focus and you’ll have to use stop-down metering.

rob answers:

ANY brand that specifies Canon mount.EF etc.
Will do just fine.

rob answers:

If you want sharpness and quality, please don’t go with any of those 18-200 zooms, NONE, i repeat NONE of them will come close to the quality of some decent glass. My recommendation, is get a 50 1.8 prime first. It’s about 100 bucks, a absolutely great lens, but it’s a prime, ie, it doesn’t zoom, but it’s super fast, at f 1.8. Then go out and get a Sigma 17-70 f 2.8-4.5. It’s a variable aperture lens, but really it doesn’t hinder me much. It’s a great lens at about $380, and you still get some of that prime “wow” factor. Use the extra money to get some quality filters. If money is an object, and you want a lot of zoom, get a Sigma 70-300 APO DG Macro. It’s gotta be the APO version, the other is crap. It stands for Apochromatic i believe. This is a top of the line cheap zoom, you wont get much better quality without jumping way up in price. These run around $250. Hope that helps!

rob answers:

Check out this site: http://www.lensbaby.com/lenses.php These are lenses that might give you “cool effects”.

Buy a Skylight 1A (uncoated) filter and apply a tiny amount of Vaseline around the edges, leaving the center (maybe 1/2 an inch) clear. Should give you some “cool effects”.

Using your zoom lens, compose a picture of a night city skyline using its widest setting and then, during the exposure, carefully zoom to its telephoto end. A 70-200mm or 55-200mm lens works really well for this. Http://www.flickr.com/photos/drifter45h/899682797/ 70-210mm zoom, ISO 200, f8 @ 15 seconds. Camera tripod mounted of course.

Http://www.calculator.org/exposure.aspx

rob answers:

Yes they do.

rob answers:

As fhotoace stated, your Pentax K mount lenses can be adapted, but would be limited or crippled. No autofocus, no metering, no electronic or mechanical linkage to your Canon DSLR.

Assuming that you’ve come across a few good Pentax lenses, you have a couple of practical choices. One would be to switch systems, though IMHO the Canon system has more potential for you.

Another would be to sell off the PK lenses so you can invest in the Canon EF mount optics that work best for your camera. See what similar lenses are going for on your local Craigslist. You might even post an ad offering to trade.

rob answers:

That is a very specific set of wants. I am going to make the assumption that your camera came with the 18-55mm “kit” lens. 18mm is not super wide, but it is, I will call “wide-ish”. 55mm is not telephoto at all. Anything wider than 18mm will cost you quite a bit of money (the EF-S 10-22 is around $700). For under $110, you could get the Canon EF 50mm ƒ1.8 ( http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/12142-USA/Canon_2514A002_Normal_EF_50mm_f_1_8.html ). It does not have adjustable zoom, but if you have a maximum budget of $110, you really won’t get that far. This is hands down, the best lens you can buy for under $100. It is very fast, and you can take really great portraits with it.

Sorry my answer wasn’t much help, but you have too many restrictions on lens wants/needs for your budget

rob answers:

Zoom: http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/search?Ntt=canon+lens&ci=274&Ns=p_PRICE_2|0&N=4288584289+4291570227+4293918168+4294951199

Wide: http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/search?Ntt=canon+lens&ci=274&Ns=p_PRICE_2|0&N=4288584289+4291570227+4293918168+4294951201

Macro: http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/search?Ntt=canon+lens&ci=274&Ns=p_PRICE_2|0&N=4288584289+4291570227+4293918168+4294951193

Fisheye: http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/search?Ntt=canon+lens&ci=274&Ns=p_PRICE_2|0&N=4288584289+4291570227+4294951192

All-Purpose: http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/search?Ntt=canon+lens&ci=274&N=4288584289+4291570227+4294951200+4293918168+35&Ns=p_PRICE_2|0

These links are lists of 4 lenses each or so—narrowed down. Just pick the price you can afford. More money will usually make you happier if you use most features.

By the way, B&H is the cheapest anywhere, guaranteed, or they’ll match.

rob answers:

First, just in case you have not the recent news that Canon announced the new
Canon Rebel T2i (550D) so you may want to check it out. (see 1st link below).

Regardless of which camera here are suggestions:

*Just get the Canon DSLR with the EF-S 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6 IS Lens zoom lens that is always offered with the Rebel DSLR camera. It is a great lens to start with because it is so versatile and it is a great deal when you get it with the camera. Start off with this lens then see what else you need and then get the other lenses you need. (see the 2nd and 3rd link below)

*Get a UV filter to protect your camera lens. B+W is a great high quality brand but Hoya will do just fine also.

*Get a memory card or two. You must have one but two is better. Sandisk, Lexar, Transcend, and Kingston are all good brands but I favor and use Sandisk and get their higher end cars call “Ultra” or Extreme” cards that transfer data faster and are more durable. (see 4th link below)

*Get a decent small camera bag, either a good small Holster Bag (I like the Tamrac brand for these, see 5th link below) or a bag that can hold more if needed. This can really protect your investment.

*Optional but good: An extra battery for your camera. Get the Canon brand so if you ever have warranty service done there can be no claims of a generic battery damaged your DSLR.

I added some other seller websites. Most of these websites have customer reviews which you may find of assistance.

Hope this helps.

Mark

rob answers:

Yes it’s good, it’s a DSLR. There’s no need to copy everything from the preview.

The camera’s name is simply Canon EOS Rebel T3i, or 600D in Europe.

Here’s a DSLR Buying guide – http://www.the-dslr-photographer.com/2009/11/which-dslr-to-buy/

It’s great, but first make sure you’re actually ready to buy such an expensive camera.

rob answers:

Canon EOS Rebel T3i Review (EOS 600D) http://dslr.bz/canon-eos-rebel-t3i/

Nikon D5100 Review
http://dslr.bz/nikon-d5100/

rob answers:

Do you want to do video? Get the T3i

are you more focussed on picture taking? Get the T2i

rob answers:

The best advice I can give you now that you have gotten that far is to go to a store that carries both and play with them. One will feel right and one won’t.

A note on the T3i-it is the same sensor as the T2i. If you don’t need the articulating screen on the T3i the T2i is a savings of about $100.

The D5100 is an awesome camera. My only drawback on it is that it doesn’t have the auto focus motor in the body. THat means that you have to purchase the AF-s lenses. That can quickly add up in $ to the point that the D7000 would have been the more economical decision. The D7000 is a mighty impressive camera and I’d go with it over the T3i-and I am a canon shooter!

rob answers:

This is due to either a hot CMOS sensor or using a memory card that writes data to the card too slowly. Class 6 cards are recommended for shooting at 720p and Class 10 cards when shooting at 1080p.

Try shooting HD video at 720p and see how long it will record. I am sure you will get more time per take at the lower resolution.

My guess is that you did not fully research the use of dSLR’s used to shoot video.

Slow writing SD cards and the auto-shutoff feature protects the sensor from over heating seem to vex people. When shooting in the winter, out doors your take times will increase. Using a Class 10 card should also increase your take times

The CMOS sensor is NOT the best for shooting video. This is why you see so many of the professional video cameras available use 3-CCD’s. They don’t overheat and using three of them, increases the quality of the video,. A dSLR is a still camera with only one sensor and some just happen to have a video :”feature” Real professional video cameras also use P2 memory cards

rob answers:

I would suggest the Canon EOS Rebel T3 12.2 MP CMOS Digital SLR with 18-55mm IS II Lens and EOS HD Movie Mode.

It has a very reasonable price, $591.53, and has great reviews on Amazon.

There is more information about this camera, and others on my photo website, here:

http://photoluminary.com/2011/06/best-digital-slr-cameras-2011-amazon/

rob answers:

If they fit on your EOS film camera they will fit on your digital camera. However the EF-s lenses that come with many digital cameras will not fit on a film camera.

EF lens is good for both, EF-s is digital only.

You’re good to go.

rob answers:

Yahoo shopping

rob answers:

Yes, but remember that there will be a cropping factor so a 50mm setting will look like a 75mm shot.

Http://photonotes.org/articles/beginner-faq/lenses.html

rob answers:

No.

The current list of Canon Digital SLRs that use SD/SDHC are:
Canon EOS Digital Rebel XS (aka 1000D)
Canon EOS Digital Rebel XSi (aka 450D)

Also the more expensive/professional models that have SD/SDHC and CF card capability. (It wouldn’t make sense to buy these just for SD card capability. Much cheaper to buy new CF cards that will work with any of the other Canon Digital SLRs.)

EOS-1D Mark II
EOS-1D Mark II N
EOS-1D Mark III
EOS-1Ds Mark II
EOS-1Ds Mark III

In the end… Compact Flash cards are not very expensive. My opinion is buy whatever camera suits you best and then buy memory cards if you need to. The XS and XSi are great cameras to learn full manual control of the camera on. If your a beginner or don’t know much, one of those two cameras is the one to get. If you’ve got some experience or take photography pretty seriously, a camera like the 40D, 50D, 5D, or 5D Mark II may be more suited to your needs.

If all you have are regular SD cards, you may find that they are not large enough to hold many pictures, so you may end up having to buy larger SDHC cards anyways. Just another thing to consider.

rob answers:

Any of the Canon EF and EF-S lenses will work with your Rebel DSLR.

What will NOT work are EF-S lenses on the 1D and 5D series Canon DSLR’s or Canon EOS 35 mm SLR’s

NONE of the Canon FD or older FL lenses are usable with the EOS cameras

rob answers:

The best camera and lens will not guarantee quality photos. It is more about your skill and experience using the camera and lenses. If you want to base it on $$$…then the 1Ds Mark III for $6,500 would be the first choice. But I have seen better photos from a professional with a entry level camera than I have from an amateur with a professional grade system.

To me, photography is roughly 70% photographer skill/experience, 20% lens quality, and 10% camera.
My choice for shooting portraits is the 50mm f/1.4 and the 70-200 f/2.8L sitting on either a 1D Mark III or for softer shots on a D30.

rob answers:

EF Lenses won’t mount on the Canon S5 IS camera.

There are a few adapters that they make specifically for it. (A teleconverter, wide angle adapter, and close up or macro adapter.) Those are what you see on the Canon Website under the S5 IS page.

rob answers:

An entry-level Canon DSLR like the XS, T1i, T2i, 50D and 7D usually has an EF-S lens as part of the kit. An EF-S lens CANNOT be used on a Canon full-frame DSLR like the 5D or 1D. Only Canon EF lenses can be used on those cameras. Of course, an EF lens can be used on the XS, T1i, T2i, 50D and 7D.

So if you buy an entry-level Canon DSLR and have any intentions of ever upgrading to a 5D or 1D full-frame DSLR Canon then don’t buy any additional EF-S lenses.

rob answers:

First, sorry I don’t speak Greek, what is “compat?”

EOS – Electronic Optical System. It’s the system that all Canon Rebel cameras use for their lenses.
All it really means is the lens is electric. Since you didn’t tell us what camera you have, I can only assume it’s a Rebel, then yes all EOS lenses. EF = Electronic Focus.
EF-s = Electronic Focus – Short Back Focus. This means there’s a shorter distance between the back element of the lens and the sensor than there is with EF lenses. Not all Canon cameras are
compatible with EFs lenses.

rob answers:

I would recommend the D3000 kit with 18-55mm VR lens ($529.00 including free shipping from camerakings.com). The D3000 is a very easy camera for a beginner to learn and use (has a nice guide feature), not to mention it just came out on the market so it will hold its resale value very well. Also, the D3000 kit lens has (VR) vibration reduction technology, thus making the D3000 a great value. Out of the bunch, the D3000 probably takes the best pictures.

The Canon XS (1000D) about $485.00 for the kit and XSi (450D) about $579.00 for the kit, give you a little more features for your dollar, but I have always preferred Nikon’s so I am a little biased toward them. If you really like Canon’s I would recommend the XSi (450D). Some people like Live View but to a real photographer Live View is somewhat of a gimmick and holds open the shutter to let more dirt get on the sensor.

One of the main reasons I prefer the Nikon’s over the Canon’s and Sony’s is that they have a separate auto focus assist lamp built into the body whereas the Canon and Sony use their flash to perform this function. In certain situations, using the flash as a AF assist lamp can interfere with your shot.

The only thing I really like about the Sony is that it has image stabilization (IS) built into the body so that any lens you use will benefit from this technology. Yes, lenses with VR or IS are more expensive, but if you shop around and consider third party lenses like Tamron or Sigma, they are quite affordable. If you absolutely need to have live view, then Sony has the best implementation of live view because they have a secondary sensor just for this purpose. The best deals I could find for the A330 kit are $489.00 with 18-55mm Lens and $629.00 with 18-55mm & 55-200mm Lens with free shipping (camerakings.com).

If you decide to get the A330 (this applies the other cameras as well), just remember if you decide to use older lenses originally made for 35mm film cameras then you need to multiply the focal length of the lens by 1.5 due to the smaller digital sensor size compared to a full frame 35mm film. What this means is that a 50mm lens would become a 75mm lens and a 28-200mm lens would become a 42-300mm lens.

I wouldn’t get too hung up on the megapixel ratings of the cameras because this is not really a deciding factor. Check out the last link below for a great article regarding the megapixel myth.

rob answers:

Hey,

Nikon is not a DSLR, the Canon EOS XS is. It’s much better..

Here’s a post called ‘Buying a DSLR, what’s important, megapixels, features, brand, price, quality and which one to buy – http://www.the-dslr-photographer.com/2009/03/which-dslr-to-buy.html

Good luck! The site has many more tutorials, tips, reviews and guides!

rob answers:

Canon Rebel XS is a great DSLR camera for beginner.good quality, fast response and light weight.
If you are looking for a good camera this is a good option.

rob answers:

Ya its definitely good for canon slr.

*85mm standard lens with f/1.8 maximum aperture .
*Ring-type ultra-sonic monitor (USM) brings subject quickly into focus
*Natural angle of view and perspective is ideal for portraits and natural images
*Designed to produce beautiful background blur; weighs 15 ounces
*Measures 3 inches in diameter and 2.8 inches long; 1-year warranty

http://www.amazon.com/Canon-85mm-Medium-Telephoto-Cameras/dp/B00007GQLU/?tag=pntsa-20

rob answers:

$679 is a great price. I’ve never ordered from Cameta but people on Answers have spoken highly of them.

I don’t think you will miss the extra features on the XSi at all. You cannot tell the difference between a picture taken with an XS and one taken with an XSi.

The 55-250mm is well rated from the reviews I have seen.

I think you have your answer!

rob answers:

Hey,

Here are the major differences:
- Auto focus. The T2i has 9AF points while the 7D has 19AF points. They’re much faster, however the T2i is fast enough for most that don’t shoot serious sports
- Frames per second: 3.7 vs 8fps – that’s 2x faster and more chances to get a better shot
- Ergonomics; better sealed, better build and material.
- 3:2 LCD 1,040k dots on the T2i is the best currently

Do you need the speed and ergonomics of the 7D? They have the same sensor (minor differences but still..), same video features, same image quality and low amount of noise. Spending 1000$ on extra lenses would be the best possible option. Because if you would really needed the 7D, you would know why to buy it

Anyways, here’s a post called ‘Buying a DSLR, what’s important, what’s not, megapixels, features, bran and price. It also talks about which DSLRs are good and differences. There are also proper amazon links for them if you click on their name. Here – http://the-digital-photographer.blogspot.com/2009/11/what-dslr-should-i-buy.html

Good luck!

rob answers:

You are most likely focusing on something that is too close or too dark. I have this camera and I have experienced similar problems when focusing on something that’s too close to the camera. Try stepping further back and just zooming, that normally works better. If you’re still having problems, I recommend bringing it in to wherever you purchased it from and asking them about it.

rob answers:

The only solutions I see here are:

1) Take your camera into a specialist and get it looked at

or

2) completely understand exposure, and what all the settings on your camera mean

rob answers:

The only solutions I see here are:

1) Take your camera into a specialist and get it looked at

or

2) completely understand exposure, and what all the settings on your camera mean

rob answers:

A camera will last a lot longer if you take the time to care for it. Keep it in a well padded case with desiccant gel packs (to absorb moisture), and the battery removed when not in use. Cleaning your mirror will be covered in the camera’s manual, and I would suggest leaving the sensor cleaning to a shop.

I use my camera outdoors year round. The best winter tips I can offer is to keep your batteries warm (inside a coat or pants pocket), your lens acclimated to the temperature ( a warm lens will fog over and get condensation on the glass), and have plenty of desiccant gel packs in your gear case (to absorb the moisture).

I have a shoot Friday in a park. I will put my gear (without the batteries) in my trunk an hour or so before I leave… That way, by the time I get on-site everything is stabilized temperature wise.

I also do the same thing in the summer…taking a camera from an A/C environment into the summer heat will cause the lenses to fog over until they get warmed up.

rob answers:

Any Canon EF lens will work on any Canon EOS body.

Canon EF-s lenses (such as the 18-55, 17-85, 10-22mm, the 60mm macro) will only mount on cropped sensor cameras such as the rebels, 50d series and 7d.

rob answers:

NOTE: The XTi is discontinued and has been replaced by the XSi.

All camera manufacturers use a proprietary lens mount so just buy Canon lenses for your Canon camera. Tamron, Sigma and Tokina also make lenses for your camera.

Buy the camera with the standard 18-55mm lens. You’ll need to spend time READING & STUDYING the Owner’s Manual for your new camera. Then, spend 3 to 6 months actually learning to use the camera and lens before even thinking about another lens. During this learning time you will begin discovering what type of photography you do the most and the capabilities/limitations of the 18-55mm lens.

Buy and read this book: “David Busch’s Quick Snap Guide to Using Digital SLR Lenses” http://www.dbusch.com Since he has written a Guide for your camera you should buy it also. It will help make the Owner’s Manual clearer and more easily understood.

I strongly urge ignoring any lens purchase suggestions at this time. Since you have no idea (yet) of the type of photography you like doing how can anyone else know what lens or lenses you need?

Taking a couple of photography classes would really help. If classes aren’t possible then you’ll have to self-educate. Its more difficult but doable.

Here are some books worth having:

“Understanding Exposure” & “Understanding Shutter Speed”, both by Bryan Peterson.

“Digital SLR Handbook” by John Freeman.

“The Art of Digital Photography” by Joseph Meehan.

I believe anyone seriously interested in photography should have their own personal library of photography books. Consider them as an investment.

A subscription to a photography magazine would be helpful. My personal favorite is SHUTTERBUG ( http://www.shutterbug.com ) but you should read the ones at your library and decide for yourself which one you like.

I bought my first real camera – a Minolta SRT-100 – in July of 1971. It came with a 50mm f1.7 lens. If memory serves, it was at least a year before I bought another lens.

rob answers:

If your budget is $300, I’d advocate the starter lens.

For around $450, Canon makes a great 28-135mm Image Stabilizing lens that is a good choice for general, all-around photography. It’s got enough zoom (particularly with the XTi) to get in closer on sports, and it’s wide enough to do vacation photos and get the Christmas tree.

Http://www.usa.canon.com/consumer/controller?act=ModelInfoAct&fcategoryid=149&modelid=7337

rob answers:

Far away … Does that mean shooting wildlife or field sports?

You may find that a lens in the 70-300mm range will do what you want. Don’t be tempted to buy a non-Canon lens. You will be better off with a good used Canon than a new third-party lens.

Flash wise?

There are a couple of Canon dedicated flash units that will reach out to about 60 feet.

Go to Canon USA’s website and see what is available. Then ask the question again with specific lens and flash models we can compare for you.

rob answers:

For as long as it’s the EF series lenses which you won’t have any problems.

rob answers:

Unfortunately No
T3i uses LC-E8E Charger

and the T1i uses LC-E5 Charger.

This information actually can be found on Canon Website
links for both Canon T3i and T1i

http://www.usa.canon.com/cusa/consumer/products/cameras/slr_cameras/eos_rebel_t3i_18_55mm_is_ii_kit#BoxContent

http://www.usa.canon.com/cusa/consumer/products/cameras/slr_cameras/eos_rebel_t1i_ef_s_18_55mm_is_kit#BoxContent

rob answers:

Why don’t you simply use them for a while and see if you’re happy with them? No point spending money before you know you need to.

rob answers:

Mate! They are both good cameras, I don’t see a lot of difference (I have yet to test a D5100). I think you should try both of them in nearest shop and buy the one you like. You can’t go wrong with either. Usually Nikon is priced relatively low, hence makes more sense to me.

rob answers:

1. Use the largest aperture possible
2. Minimize the distance between you and your subject
3. Increase the distance between your subject and the background
4. Use longer focal lengths

rob answers:

You are going to have to visit a camera store and test them to see which one you like the best.

On a purely technical basis, here is how there sensors compare

http://www.dxomark.com/index.php/Camera-Sensor/Compare/Compare-sensors/(appareil1)/692%7C0/(appareil2)/698%7C0/(onglet)/0/(brand)/Canon/(brand2)/Nikon

If you are planning to shoot in any low light or indoor sports, the Nikon D5100 will be what you want to investigate furthure